I had seen the pictures before a seemingly endless row of vermilion torii gates, forming a tunnel of red and black that snakes up the hillside. But nothing prepared me for the actual sight of Fushimi Inari Shrine, the most famous and impressive of Japan's many shrines dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice and prosperity.⁠
The shrine is located in southern Kyoto, at the foot of sacred Mount Inari. The shrine dates back to the 8th century when Kyoto was still a new capital and Inari was a powerful patron of the imperial court and the common people alike. Foxes are believed to be Inari's messengers, and their statues abound on the shrine grounds, often holding a key or a jewel in their mouths.⁠
The main attraction of Fushimi Inari Shrine, however, is the senbon torii, or "thousand gates", that line the 4-kilometer trail to the summit of the mountain. These gates are donations by individuals and businesses who seek Inari's blessing for their endeavors. The names and dates of the donors are inscribed on the back of each gate, creating a colorful mosaic of history and faith. The oldest gate dates from 711, while the newest ones are from this year.⁠
Walking through the Torii gates is a mesmerizing experience. The contrast between the bright red and the green forest is striking, and the sound of birds and wind is soothing. The gates vary in size and shape, some wide and tall, others narrow and low. Some are clustered together, others spaced apart. Some are weathered and faded, others shiny and fresh. Each gate has its own story and personality, yet they all form a harmonious whole.⁠