Автор: Георги
Дата: 27-03-05 23:31
Handcolorists wishing to bridge the gap between darkroom photographic prints and digital prints may wish to consider a simple but innovative technique. Fiber-based photographic paper can be used as the printing medium in an inkjet printer. The unexposed paper is first processed with conventional fixer in a photographic darkroom, then fed into an inkjet printer. The result is a black & white digital image on fiber-based photographic paper. Colors are applied as in traditional handcoloring, using oils and pencils. The end product is virtually indistinguishable from an original, handcolored darkroom print.
http://photo.box.sk/design/handcolor005.jpg
When you intend to handcolor a print, the paper selection is crucial. Ilford's Multigrade IV FB is a popular choice because it has a smooth, yet toothed surface that doesn't require spray priming. It accepts PM solution and oils, so that colors are transparent and easily blended. It is not damaged by rubbing with cotton, repeated erasing or pencil pressure. Additionally, it is moisture resistant, archival, and is a well-respected photographic paper.
Many inkjet papers lack tooth and require a spray in order for the color to stick, leaving a delicate surface that is irreparable once damaged. Watercolor and other rough-surfaced papers that do not require primer have at least some of the following limitations:
· pencil pressure damages the tooth
· erasure damages the tooth, or is not possible
· oils cannot be used
· fingerprints are permanently damaging
· surface does not resemble fiber-base paper (e.g. canvas, linen)
· blending is difficult (too time-consuming or damaging)
· colors (dry media) are not transparent
· artist's tape easily tears the surface
· paper is too thick to feed into an inkjet printer
These difficulties can be overcome with practice and experimentation, and many handcolorists are the better for it. However, if you are searching for a paper that LOOKS and PERFORMS like Ilford's fiber-based paper, this pre-fixed Ilford paper is the closest match.
To make your own prefixed paper, the first step is to process it; otherwise it will quickly turn blue when exposed to light. Skipping the developer tray, process several sheets of unexposed fiber-based paper in safe light, through the fixer, the hypo, and the rinse. Dry the paper as flat as possible. Inkjet printers leave ink-blotches on lumpy paper, and it is never a good idea to risk jamming the rollers. You might try a drying book with weights on top.
Next, prep the file. Dot gain is likely, so make your file lighter and with less contrast than usual. Try using curves in Photoshop to remove about 10% of the black (sounds like dry-down, doesn't it?). Also, grab the curve in the center, and pull it to lighten the midtones as well, leaving the highlights unchanged. Experiment for the best results.
When your file is ready, place the paper in your printer and choose "photo quality inkjet" or similar. Don't forget to change your paper size in "page setup" to reflect the size of your prefixed paper. Print it out, and let dry for a minute or two.
The last step is to handcolor the print. If you notice that the blacks look oily, wipe the print down with some cotton soaked in PM solution. It will even everything out. Your print will readily accept PM solution, Marlene, oils, and various pencils with outstanding results. Water, however, is a solvent for the inkjet inks, so stay away from water-based colors. Informally tested, these inkjet printers responded favorably to the prefixed paper:
- Epson Stylus Photo 820, 870 & 1280: Paper feeds without difficulty. PM solution and Marlene do not cause any damage, but water removes the inkjet ink.
- Canon Bubble Jet S800: Paper feeds without difficulty. PM solution and Marlene do not cause any damage, but water removes the inkjet ink.
- HP PhotoSmart P1000: Due to its front-loading tray, the rollers have some difficulty grabbing the leading edge of the paper. But, once grabbed, the paper feeds fine. PM solution works well, but Marlene smudges and water removes the inkjet ink. Using the technique outlined above, you have all the advantages of a digital method: the ability to handcolor from color prints, slides, etc. (anything a scanner can scan), the ability to touch-up, to remove fatal flaws or to be completely abstract at the click of a mouse. Yet your method for traditional handcoloring need not change. That is important, as it allows you to paint in a familiar way, without fear of damaging the paper's surface.
Although the paper requires some preparation, you should find the results well worth the extra time. With any luck, Ilford will see the opportunity to distribute a line of prefixed, pre-flattened fiber-based paper. Until then, you can make your own!
Laura Culver
http://www.handcoloredart.com/
и т.н.
някой дали е пробвал такова, че ми стана интересно? :)
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